Make sure you have all the required tools and knowledge to do the tasks described here.

All bolts should be tightened using a calibrated torque wrench. For installation of third-party components, make sure they are according to the compatibilities listed at the end of this manual, and follow the instructions supplied by the component maker.

If you are working with a clamp-type workstand, installing the seatpost should be your first step. Clamping any tube other than the seatpost might damage the frame. For tasks that require big torques, like tightening the BB, the frame needs to stand either on the ground (with wheels installed), or a BB/axle mount type workstand.

1. Apply friction paste on seatpost and on inside of seat tube
2. Tighten the seat clamp bolt to 6 Nm

Note: For smooth function, it is import to use high quality, flexible cable housing.

Determine the correct steerer tube length for your fit by assembling the fork, headset bearings, compression ring, top cone, spacers (if needed) and stem. If you want to keep some spare steerer tube length for fit adjustment, you can place additional spacers above the stem. Mark the height of the assembly on the steerer tube, using a pencil or marker. Check twice before you cut!

Take some prevention not to inhale the carbon dust when cutting the fork. Wear a mask and use a vacuum cleaner to remove the dust during cutting. Cut the steerer tube using a carbon specific hacksaw blade (e.g. Park Tool CSB-1) and a cutting guide. You should cut it 2-3 mm below the mark you did in the step before. Make sure you do not damage the carbon by delamination. Smoothen the edges of the steerer tube using sand paper.

Apply friction paste to the inside of the steerer tube and insert the expander. Tighten the expander to 5 Nm.

Slide the cable housings through the frame. Work from the rear towards the head tube. Let the cables exit through the top of the head tube. Make sure the RD (and rear disc brake) cable passes above the BB shell, and use an end cap on the FD cable. Leave some extra length to the cable housing on either end.

For Di2, cables follow the same path as with mechanical shifting. They get connected above the BB by a junction box. Pull out the cables (from RD, FD, battery and handlebar) through the large openings inside the BB shell, connect them with the junction, and push the junction back into the frame. The battery gets stored inside the seatpost by an adaptor (e.g. Pro PRAC0094). Recommended cable lengths are indicated in the picture below.

To avoid noise, slide the foam tubes over the cables.

Apply grease to the top bearing seat of the headset and install the bearing.

Install the front brake and route the brake line through the fork. Pull it out through the slotted hole in the steerer tube. Apply grease to the lower bearing, the integrated bearing seat of the fork and the lower bearing seat in the head tube. Place the lower headset bearing on the fork and insert the fork into the head tube. Make sure the rear derailleur cable and rear brake line pass the steerer tube on the drive side and the front derailleur cable on the non-drive side.

Slide the compression ring over the cables. Use the holes as indicated below. For Di2 use the slotted hole.

Slide the top cone and stem over the cables. Make sure that you select the appropriate top cone for your seating position. While spacers can be added and removed later, replacing the top cone or stem requires a little more work.

Mount the upper cap and tighten it just enough so that there is no play and the bearings remain smooth.

Align the stem and tighten the steerer clamp bolts to 5 Nm.

Check the function of the steering. At larger steering angles you may feel some resistance from the cables, but it should not be too much. Make sure all cables have enough slack to allow the fork to turn 90 degrees in either direction. At this point, the cable length can still be easily adjusted.

Cut the cable sleeves to their final length after you've installed the components, but double-check that there's enough slack to rotate before doing so. If you want to make changes to your setup later, leave the cable sleeves a little longer and run the cables in a slightly larger arc in front of the stem.

Slide the rubber plugs over the shift cables where they exit the frame.

To check which handlebars are compatible, please refer to the table at the end of this document.

Apply carbon paste to the contact areas of the stem and handlebars.

Slide the handlebar clamp over the handlebar. This should be done before mounting the brake levers.

Slide the handlebar clamps over the protrusions on the side of the stem. Tighten the four grub screws alternately and evenly to 5 Nm. Make sure that the gap between the handlebar clamp and the stem is evenly sized. The screws are coated with threadlocker for initial assembly. If you make adjustments later, use liquid threadlocker (e.g. Loctite 243). Check the tightness of the screws before each ride.

Use threadlocker (e.g. Loctite 222) on the thread of the RD Hanger Bolt before tightening it to 8 Nm.

To use a derailleur, mount the FD Hanger. For cranks with only one chainring, use the FD hanger cover. Mount the two screws with threadlocker and tighten them with 5 Nm.

If you want to mount fenders, use the supplied fender mounts and the Seatstay Bridge. The Seatstay Bridge can be omitted if no fender is mounted.

On the top tube, down tube and seat tube are a total of four mounting options for bottle holders or other solutions for carrying small luggage. The attachments are designed for a maximum weight of 1 kg.

There are mounting points for a luggage rack on the dropouts and seat stays. They are designed for a maximum weight of 10 kg.

Clean the surface with alcohol before you attach the chainstay protector.

This frame is designed and tested for a maximum total weight (rider, bike and luggage) of 110 kg.