Before installing the cables, we recommend to have the fork prepared (steerer cut to correct length, crown race and expander installed).

We recommend installing all cables from the rear, working towards the headset. First install the dropper post cable housing. This is done best with the help of a magnetic tool like the Park Tool IR-1.2. pull it out through the top of the head tube and leave it there.

Now install the RD cable housing and rear brake hose. Just push them through the guide tube in the chain stays, then with a gentle arc into the front triangle. Also pull them out through the top of your head tube and leave them there.

Push the foam tubes over the housings into the down tube to avoid rattling.

Sort the cables to suit the setup of your levers at the handlebar. A typical arrangement for a rear brake – right hand setup is shown below. Make sure the cables do not cross inside the steerer tube.

Add grease to the bearing seats inside the frame and on the fork crown race. Slide one bearing over the fork and the other over the cables into the frame. Make sure the big chamfer on the out- side of the bearing faces towards the frame.

Slide the fork into the frame, making sure the cables pass on the correct side of the steerer tube.

Now install the compression ring. Again, make sure the cables are arranged as you wish. Finally sli- de the headset top cone onto the fork, install the stem and top cover. Tighten bolt in the top cover until there is no play in the headset before you tighten the stem according to the instructions of the stem.

All pivots except for the horst link use the same construction. They are equipped with adjustable angular contact bearings.

To disassemble, first remove the bolt (6) on the non-drive side using a 5 mm allen key. Then remove the tapered washer (4). Some prying with a 6 mm allen key might be required for that. Finally unthread the axle (3), using an 8 mm allen key. If you want to remove the bearing, use a dedicated bearing extraction tool as available for example from Enduro (BBT-100).

Assembly follows the reverse process. If you are replacing bearings, apply grease to the contact surfaces of bearings and link and use a dedicated bearing press to press in the bearings. Make sure black seal is facing towards the outside.

Apply some grease onto the thread of the axle. Then place the bearing caps (1) onto the bearings and slide the link into the frame. Thread in the axle (3) and tighten it just until there is no play in the bearings, but not more. Apply some grease to the tapered washer (4) and install it using the M5 bolt (6). Tighten it to 6 Nm. While tightening, hold the axle with an 8 mm allen key from the drive side to make sure you do not apply additional preload on the bearings.

The horst link is using a simpler axle. It is important not to forget the spacer (5) in between the bearings when pressing in new ones. The axle (1) should be tightened to 8 Nm.

Make sure to apply thread locker (e.g. Loctite 222) to the RD hanger Nut (2) whenever you re-install it. Tighten the RD Hanger to 10 Nm.

The Extra comes with a spacer (2) that goes in between the bottle cage and the frame at the lower bottle cage bolt to create more clearance between bottle and shock. We recommend a side load bottle cage. Since every bottle and shock model is different, please check clearance between bottle and shock (while moving it through its travel) before riding.

The frame protection kit is made from tailor-cut 3M 2228 Mastic Tape, also known as slapper tape. Before applying it, clean the frame with an alcohol wipe.

Make sure you are using a 230 x 60 mm shock. Install it in the frame, apply thread locker (e.g. Loctite 222) and tighten the bolts to 6 Nm.

Release the air from the shock and move it through its full stroke to make sure there is enough clearance.

After every ride: check that all bolts are tightened to the specified torque. Clean the bike and inspect for any visible damage. Make sure there is no play in the headset.
Every 1000 km: Remove the fork and inspect for any visible damage on the steerer tube and crown area. Externally clean and re-grease headset bearings.

The Extra frame requires a rear wheel with 4 mm offset and boost (148 mm) hub. Almost any boost rear wheel can be re-dished to achieve the 4 mm offset. Important: If you use a dishing tool, there should be no gap on the drive side, and an 8 mm gap to the hub on the brake side.

This frame is designed and tested for a maximum total weight (rider plus bike plus equipment) of 110 kg.